Spice Spirit. The clue’s in the name. And the logo – a fiery red chilli pepper. But the real giveaway is the wave of spice that hits you upon walking into this new outlet in The Village. The familiar peppery aroma – an almost tangible sensation on your face – announces that you’re in for Sichuanese treats, even before the waiter has had a chance to greet you.

The boiled organic grass carp (46RMB/500g) is infused with spices and pepper in a large bowl of oil that also contains bamboo shoots, bean sprouts and the like. When done badly, this dish becomes a mushy disappointment, but here, the fish is tender, soft, and perfectly captures the intense flavours.

Better still are the fried shrimps (42RMB). Beautifully presented in a small white bowl, the strong red of the hot spicy sauce entices and invites. Expect an explosion of fire once you take your first bite.

This is eye-wateringly hot stuff – an overwhelming, almost mouth-numbing sensation, which is a lot more pleasurable to experience than it is to read about.

The spicy theme continues with the deep-fried kidney beans (22RMB), a solid staple: crunchy, with the right level of fire, and a decent after-burn.

Be sure to order some dishes to soothe the palate. The steamed spare rib in sticky rice wrapped in reed leaves (8RMB) is pleasingly simple; the Chinese broccoli stir fried with garlic (26RMB) is cooling, although in need of a little more seasoning; while the steamed spareribs and rice paste in a pumpkin bowl is a triumph – softly cooked, flavoursome and moreish.

There are also tamer options available for those who aren’t big fans of spice, no matter how spirited. Think pineapple rice, pork with steamed bread or dumplings.

As for the service and decor, the staff are both attentive and helpful, without being too overbearing (other than a slight hiccup at the start when three waiters rushed to the table – a little too eager to please, perhaps), while the interior has a calm late-night lounge feel, complete with plush furnishings, sparkly chandeliers, black marble flooring and ‘contemporary’ touches such as links of metal hanging from the ceiling and walls.

There are only two areas where it really falls down. The first is that, on our visit, the staff were closing up while people were still dining. You can see why they’d do so, as it’s a big space, but it is somewhat off-putting for those still enjoying themselves.

Nevertheless, it’s a small problem that should be easy to rectify. The other failing is going to be more difficult to fix, and that’s the bizarre location of the washroom.

Amazingly, there is none. The nearest facility is a long walk to one within The Village. Food snobs may also find it a problem giving praise to an outlet that’s one of more than ten in Beijing.

Yes, it’s part of a chain. But why does that necessarily have to be a bad thing? The service is good, the prices are reasonable, and the fiery food is bound to please those with a taste for spice and all things nice. Adrian Sandiford

Spice Spirit S2-30, The Village at Sanlitun, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang district (6413 2903). Open 11am-11pm daily. Meal for two around 275RMB. 朝阳区三里屯 路19 号院VILLAGE

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